11th Oct - Benita flew back to England and I took the overnight ferry to Liverpool where I begin my last 150 miles home!!! When I reach home I will have done just over 18,100 miles.
7th Oct - met up with Benita in Dublin. Spent five days in County Wicklow.
6th Oct - flight from NY to Dublin.
27th Sept - 5th Oct - site seeing in new York.
26th Sept - Arrived in Manhattan. Got hotel between Time Square and Central Park. Navigation is easy due to th grid system. had a pint of Guinness in an Irish bar and some new york cheesecake!! Seemed a bit empty arriving here alone with my journey all but finished.
25th Sept - 51 miles to Elizabeth. Uneventful.
24th Sept - 48 miles to lambertville. More rolling countryside but very attractive.
23rd Sept - 65 miles to Pheonixville. Just two short days now before I reach New York.
20th Dept - 46 miles to Ed and Nancy's near Menheim where I spent the next two days siteseeing and receiving very kind hospitality.
19th Sept - 57 miles to Delta.
18th Sept - 64 miles to Catonsville after delivering a talk to children at Will and Sherryl's school.
16th/17th Sept - site seeing in Washington.
15th Sept - 40 miles to Washington DC. Got my picture taken with my bike in front of the White House and did a tour of George Washington House at Mount Vernon. Will and Sheryl are kindly putting me up. I have now completed 3,921 miles in America and 17,621 in total.
14th Sept - 59 miles to Woodbridge. Struggled to get up this morning and didn't set off pedalling until around 9am - but I was in no rush as tomorrow will be a short day to Washington DC. I met a couple out exercising and who stopped to talk to me whilst I was checking my maps. They asked to say a short prayer for my safety so we all joined hands and he said the prayer aloud. Got a puncture in my front tyre.
13th September - 59 miles to Fredericksburg. The route was all in the country with very little human contact. Met two cyclists - Dave from new York and Brian who was Canadian.
12th Sept - 47 miles to Ashland. I didn't really have a plan today - decided to get to the point where I leave the Transamerican trail and joined the Atlantic coast route before I made a decision. I opted for a shorter day to Ashland (as opposed to a 90+ miles day!).
11th Sept - 84 miles to Louisa. Stopped for lunch in Charlottesville which is an attractive University town surrounded by vineyards, orchards and luxury houses. Met two couples from Texas who had flown in for a college American football match. they were taken by my travels and insisted on buying me lunch.
10th Sept - 56 miles to Waynesboro. Was expecting a hard day (which it was) but it went ok. That was my last big climb of the trip on the Blue Ridge Mountains - my bum knows it and so does my heart!! Guess if I die now I can call it done!
9th Sept - 47 miles to Lexington. Had a good start and terrain was kind. Seems like I am back in civilisation.
8th Sept - I have now been riding for 14 months and covered 17,225 miles!!! Done 49 miles to Daleville (quite appropriate perhaps?!). I could have done more but it works well for another 50 miles tomorrow and places me close to the last big climb of America. Spent the day in beautiful valleys on small quiet roads.
7th Sept - 59 miles to Christiansburg. Uneventful day! But never ending hills. Looking forward to some easy going!
6th Sept - 76 miles to Wytheville. Had the option to miss out the hills today and go direct to Wytheville. However, my conscience, for some reason, took me up the hills where I cycled to Damascus and picked up the Virginia Creeper trail. Met a load of cyclists looking insecure on their bikes coming down the trail. Companies take groups of cyclists up the hill so they only have to cycle down! Managed to finish cycling before the rain came.
5th Sept - 72 miles to Abingdon - very hilly and took 10 hours! Many steep slow climbs but scenery is nice. Rolling hills, dales and valleys following rivers. The hill people are very poor and their houses/trailers are very basic. I saw a lot of yard sales going on - I asked if this was to do with the Labor Day weekend but was told that it wasn't and that people were just trying to raise money until they could draw their dole cheque.
4th Sept - 69 miles to Breaks just across the Virginia border. Progress good for first 30 miles then becoming hillier with some steep long climbs (out of the seat!). Lucky to get a motel room as there is a gospel singing on tonight and it is Labor Day weekend.
3rd Sept - I am in Hazard. Have not seen Daisy Duke! Did 73 very hilly miles. Was no option for a shorter stop. I saw fire engines and ambulances for a car accident up ahead. They were just getting a stretcher out of the ambulance when I went past so someone was hurt. Just hope all these motorists can keep missing me for a few more weeks. Would hate to fail now!
30th August - Now in Leitchfield. No telephone signal again tonight even though I am at a big town. America has been hard. The terrain is still hard work and the distances seem endless with little change in scenery. Been struggling with motivation as I have been getting so tired and run down. The good news is that I look as if I am in good time to hit NY so I can afford to ease back a bit and have a few rest days but at the moment while the weather is kind I will keep pushing to be sure. I doubt that I can make NY early enough to warrant a change in flight plans.
29th Aug - I am now in Madisonville in Kentucky. No telephone signal for the last two days. Making good progress considering the 90 degree heat. Set to become cooler for the next few days which will be good. Having to make my own route up at the moment as there is no accommodation on the cycle route except camping. Will make 18,000 miles. Got 1400 to go and a month to do it in so should be ok but only had two rest days since SFO and I am running on fumes!
25th Aug - I am in Chester on the banks of the Mississippi
24th Aug - Did a very hilly 71 miles today. At Pilot Knob. Interesting name.
22nd Aug - 88 miles to Houstan.
21st Aug - Did 93 miles to Springfield to get some accommodation
20th Aug - Made it to Pittsburg - 89 miles. 6 miles to Missouri border
17th Aug - Sitting in a motel hallway waiting for a large thunder storm to pass over. Have 58 miles to the next town with no services inbetween and a 10 to 20 mph head wind so will have to see what its like when we set off. If its too hard I might have to turn back and wait until tomorrow but then tomorrow is also forecasting a head wind. Flat ground is great with a back wind but there is no shelter here from a head wind.
16th Aug - I am now half way across Kansas. My phone has not worked since Pueblo. Its ironic that the worst country I have had for a mobile signal is America! I have now done 2000 miles in America so should be half way across. I have only had two rest days although today was a short day due to town positions. Now out of the Rockies but having unfavourable winds instead. Have not had a day of back winds yet. Yesterday we met a cyclist just packing up from camping. Turns out to be James - a guy from london who is attemping to break Mark Beaumont's world record. He is doing 120 miles per day! I cycled 15 miles with him before me and Bart stopped for some breakfast. He will probably be finished and in the news before I get home. Kansas is flat and boring and made worse by the winds. Forecast for head winds for the next two days. Only really seeing people in service stations and restaurants as they dont walk anywhere further than their vehicles parked outside. They drive to get to the other side of the road!! Miss not having regular contact with home. I am assuming the East coast is more populated and better serviced. I am in Buffalo and Indian country at the moment, not that I have seen either other than in pictures!
10th Aug - In Pueblo - cycled 104 miles today!! This was too much and I arrived late and tired. I am, however, out of the mountains now - at last!
8th Aug - I still have a telephone signal. The cycling is very challenging and has been leaving me very tired although today seemed a bit easier helped by a strong head wind. I am now at a grotty big city called Montrose and down to 5000ft. Tomorrow I start climbing again and the next day probably will be going over the highest summit of my trip at 11,500ft. So the cycling will be tough for another few days until I hit Kansas but then the heat will be back up to the 100s!
7th Aug - I spent the evening at Tulluride - a ski resort that is quite upmarket. It was nice to be back in civilisation. It seems like changing states is like going to a whole new country. I have been caught up by a racing cyclist both yesterday and today so had the pleasure of their company for a good number of miles. Stopped at a cafe yesterday at Rico. The lady said her first customer that morning was a black bear! Apparently they are common around here - weighing up to 300lbs. Saw a little fawn and several golden eagles. The scenery is lovely. I went over lizard pass at 10500ft.
5th Aug - I am at Dolores in Colorado. The town site is at 7000ft. Tomorrow I start to climb into the Rockies with a pass at 10,500ft. Its 94 degrees fahrenheit today so a bit cooler than it has been! I spent a night at Hite on the banks of Lake Powell sleeping on a picnic table at a rangers station. As it got dark I had bats flying inches over my head. At least it kept mosquitos away. I fell asleep at 9pm but got up at 1am and cycled for 9.5 hrs to do 80 miles with 5000ft of climbing. I met a motor cyclist at Hite. We sat and chatted. About 9am the next morning he turned up again on the road. He had ridden 30 miles to bring me out a sandwich! We sat on some rocks and ate them before he rode 30 miles back up the road to head off on his intended route!
4th Aug - I did 80 miles on terrain like the Wolds so hence a rest day before tackling the Rockies. I think my phone will work again once I am across the Rockies. 360 miles to cross them so should be back in signal in another week I hope. Saw a big forest fire and took a couple of pictures. It was then on the regional news and the national weather channel. Now I am out of Utah there are Bars again. Nevada was all casinos and brothels as both are legal. Utah is all Mormon - you can buy alcohol at the groccery stores but there are no bars. Here in Dolores theres a micro brewery for me to investigate. This town is used as a base for winter skiing. The ski lifts start as I head up the mountain tomorrow. There are a lot of luxury homes around here that I guess are winter skiing homes.
1st Aug - Just had a very tough day. Cycled from 4am to 3pm with 4,500ft of climbing. Still alive and still going! Got some unserviced areas coming up so will be out of touch. Will have to camp rough and may need to use my iodine tablets and stream water. Utah is stunning. Fantastic scenery and the route seems to take you through the best of it. Nevada was hard and dull. Went to 9,500 ft today. Two days ago I was up at 10,500ft. At least its cooler at altitude.
28th July - I am in Ceder City Utah. Done 56 miles today. Now 8 hours behind UK time. I have a good telephone signal. The distances are big and the roads are long straights where you can see miles ahead with no change of scenery so its as much a mental challenge as a physical one. I am about half way through the hard stuff now before I get past the Rockies and to the prairies of Kansas. 800 miles done now of 4000 approx in America. Its definitely no picnic! Have a climb from 4,500ft to 10,500ft in the morning over 10 miles so a strong long climb with a gallon of water on the bike! That will test my aching left knee. Got my 4th back tyre fitted in a cycle shop today.
26th July - I am still in Nevada in a town called Baker. I am 5 miles from the border of Utah. My phone has not worked for days. The country is so vast and the distances huge with so many mountains. Taken a rest day today. There is a national park here and I met a lady who arrived to visit the park today so she offered to give me a lift so I have been in a cave and up a glacier. She has now moved onto Ely where she has work tomorrow. I will get to bed early for a 1 am start to beat the heat.
23rd July - Not had a signal on my phone for several days. Today is the coolest day since I left SFO. Some rain this afternoon - the first I have seen. Did 64 miles yesterday to Austin and 70 miles today to Eurika. Americas loneliest road lives up to its name. There is nothing between towns but desert and big hills. Eurika is 6500ft above sea level. I left Austin at 2am straight into a 1000ft steep climb. Nearly hit some animal in the dark coming downhill. Dont know what it was! I hope this rain is the end of the heat wave! The cycling is tough both physically and mentally. At times you can see the road for 25 miles ahead with no change of scenery! Be glad to get to the more populated East. I have 78 miles to Ely tomorrow with 5 passes en route. Hope I can make it as there is nothing inbetween.
I am now in the desert. It goes over 100 degrees each day. I am in the midst of a heat wave thats set to last at least another week. Been getting up at 5 and on the road at 6. Tomorrow I am going to start at 3 o'clock and cycle in the dark. There is no water or food for the next 50 miles. Got bigger stretches to come and its all hills. Bought another torch that I have cable tied to my helmet - so will see how that works. I doubt I will have much in the way of a telephone signal for a few days. There are no trees and no shade from now on so I have to make somewhere before the sun gets too high or I run out of water - so this will be a tough leg. If tomorrow works out I might cycle all night and sleep all day from now on. Will not see any thing but at least its cool and I dont require as much water that is very heavy to carry!
21st July - In follson. Home of Topgun! A lot of the filming of the movie was done here. I am in a city but no mobile coverage! I did 62 miles today from Carson city. Cycled passed the world famous Kit Kat ranch! (whore house). Prostitution is legal in this state along with gambling. Las Vegas is in this state. 20th July - Finding it very hard due to heat. No Phone signal yesterday. On way to Carson City Nevada - 54 miles. 19th July - Reached Kirkwood - 51 miles and 6000 ft of climbing! 17th July - 21 miles to Fairplay where the big climb begins. No phone signal. 16th July - Stopped At Placerville - only 28 miles!! Concerned about my low distances. 15th July - got up 5.30am to beat the heat. I stopped at 28 miles in Folsom. It is 22 miles to the next town and a 1500 ft climb! 14th July - 45 miles to Sacramento. Its 102 degrees! Never felt such heat. I start climbing tomorrow and accommodation gets scarce. 13th July - 46 miles to Vacaville. There is a BIG problem - the heat! I got mild heat stroke and cramp in both thighs together. Had to lie down on the verge for an hour. How will I get over the mountains?! 12th July - Cant get around having to take the ferry across the bay as both ways round there are bridges that have no cycle access! SFO seems really nice. Seems a laid back sort of place. Lots of tourists. Temperature is kept nice by a cool sea breeze but apparently soon as I go inland the temperature goes right up! Got the hardest part first as the main mountains run down this western side. Set off cycling tomorrow.
11th July - Been to Baseball game. Got up early and queued for ticket to Alcatraz. 10th July - Arrived San Francisco - now 9 hours behind.
9th July - flight to America. 26th June to 8th July - holiday with kids - drove down to South island. 25th June - just waiting on kids to arrive - Marie rang from boarding gate at Heathrow. Bike boxed up and in motorhome. 24th June - got clothes laundered - all but what I was wearing!! Not like the Levi ad!! Been fishing and caught 4 king fish. A girl on the boat caught one weighing 21kg! Saw a humped back whale on the way back. 22nd June - Dropped bike off for a service. About 50km North of Auckland. 21st June - Had a pretty successful day. Got a motor home booked for Monday morning so have to cycle 20 km out to the airport to collect it. I have it booked for 18 days. Kids go back at near midnight on the 8th so I have booked a flight also with New Zealand airlines for 7.30 pm on the 9th. I arrive at 12.45pm also on the 9th so I arrive before I ever took off! Been up the Sky Tower - 220m! 20th June - Just starting to get this sorted in Auckland in pperapartion for Dave and Marie flying out. Have found a shop that can service my bike and do chain and oil but they are well out of town so will have to take the bike in the campervan. Just had a beer watching All Blacks play France in a friendly. 19th June - In Auckland - 52 miles. New Zealand done!! Only America left. 18th June - 72 miles to Rangiriri. Cold day with light winds. In hotel room with no tv and no heating!! 17th June - 56 miles to Putaruru. Very cold day but sunny and dry but freezing again. 16th June - 71 miles to Taupo at the side of a lake. Managed to get over the desert road (NZs highest sealed road) through sleet showers. Dunedin was closed off today with snow to sea level. Snow is forecast for the desert road again tonight. 15th June - Did 48 miles uphill to Waiouru at 795m above sea level. There is a risk of snow tomorrow! 14th June - 58 miles to Hunterville. Fogg in the morning. Met a jogger who turned out to be Squadron Leader Carl Smith from the Ohakea air base. He showed me round and I then had a cup of tea and a sandwich at his home. 13th June - 59 miles to Levin. Was warm in the morning but heavy rain in the afternoon. There was a hill to climb out of Wellington but thereafter it was pretty flat. My pedal and crank fell off but they went back on ok. 12th June - In Wellington. Did 51 miles to Picton and caught the 2pm ferry which takes 3 and a half hours. 11th June - 51 miles to Ward. Head wind which is very strong at times but warm and fab scenery. 10th June - Just 31 miles to Kiakoura. Head wind too string to cycle safely. I am tired and a bit low. Going is tough and very cold and windy. Scenery is fabulous but its the wrong time of year to be cycling here. 9th June - 55 miles to a staging post in the sticks called Hawkswood. Was cold day but mainly dry. Staying in a cabin.
8th June - 39 miles to Amberley. Had a big hill out of Governors Bay and then head winds. No other accommodation for 50km.
7th June - 46 miles to James Moss's home. Very hilly spot - fab views.
6th June - 66 miles to Rakaia.
5th June - 74 miles to Timaru.
4th June - 53 miles to Hampden. Big hill to start the day. very tired. Stayed dry but cold.
3rd June - got bike all back together and got a map. Will set off cycling again tomorrow.
2nd June - flight to New Zealand - Dunedin airport.
29th May to 1st June - in Sydney. boxed up bike. Cruised ferries on Sydney Harbour. Showery and windy.
28th May - 25 miles to Sydney airport. Got a hotel but stuck out on a limb. Good location for packing up my bike for the flight but not so good for sight seeing and entertainment.
27th May - 61 miles to Heathcote. A hilly and wet afternoon. Short distance to Sydney tomorrow.
26th May - Very hilly 60 miles to Gerringong. Went for a coffee in town and was invited out to dinner.
25th May - 35 miles to Ulladulla. it wasn't really an option to go on so I booked a flight ticket for New Zealand and went fishing. I caught loads on a hand line in the harbour.
24th May - Very hilly 65 km to Bateman's Bay named by Captain Cook. Seaside resort - but only 18 degrees. Everyone has boats.
23rd May - Just 25 miles to Narooma. A wet and windy day. I am a guest of Jenny's friends - a doctor and her husband. Fab views. I was taken out for a fantastic meal of oysters!
22nd May - 60 hilly and showery miles to Cobargo.
20th - 21st May - Eden. been to a whale museum and invited to a boat for tea. 19th May - 53 miles of hills and rain forest to Genoa. Frosty start. 18 degress by dinner time.
18th May - 49 miles to Bellbird Creek. Had no phone signal in forest and mountains - hard going.
17th May - 71 miles to Nowa Nowa. Nice ride along an old rail track.
16th May - 71 miles to Stratford (on Avon)! Heavy showers and strong tail wind. Also 3 punctures! A bit like buses - don't have one for ages the three come at once! All glass shards in front tyre.
15th May - Back to work! 73 wet miles to Yarragon.
12th -14th May - 65 miles to Melbourne. Plan to stay here a couple of days to look around. Got a cheap hotel in the centre. Visited tallest building. Tired with sore throat. cycled around Melbourne F1 circuit. It is great - set around a big lake.
11th May - 61 miles to Ballarat. Light winds and nice scenery. Have a slightly sore knee after yesterday's wind.
10th May - 60 miles to Ararat. Strong head wind all day. 12,006 miles now completed!!
9th May - 47 miles to Horsham. Strong head wind. Met a guy called Shane at Dimboola en route. Went to see Australian rules football followed by a few beers in Horsham.
8th May - 54 miles to Nhill. Strong head wind. Overcast and cold.
7th May - 52 miles to Bordertown. Dry day and light head wind. Chatted to a fellow glider pilot.
6th May - 74 miles to Tintinara. Flat terrain and light winds. Scenery not outstanding.
5th May - Back on the road again - 46 hilly miles to Murray Bridge. Good conditions.
27th April – 4th May – sightseeing and being entertained wine and dined by Jenny and her many friends. Got to a good cycle shop to order in a new front chain ring, front tyre and a map holder. Been taken up to Cleland wildlife park and got to touch a Koala and see wombats and Kangaroos with joeys. Had meals out with friends and family of Jennys and been out wine tasting at Rosemount estate (my favourite wine – Merlot) amongst several other wineries.
26th April – 63 miles to Adelaide – just a horrible day – strong winds and heavy rain – locals very happy with the rains. Found Jenny’s house with no problems and now a week’s rest!!
25th April – 63 miles to Pt Wakefield – ANZAC day in Australia and had heard part of a Dawn Service being held in Crystal Brook. Left with no breakfast but had same at Redhill. Another coffee at Lochiel – pink salt lake on which somebody had placed car tyres to resemble Nessie of Loch Ness fame i.e.! Found Motel – more rain overnight.
24th April – 67 miles to Crystal Brook. 1st 2 hrs a back wind which was great – good progress but then a cross wind and then head wind + showers. Stayed at the Royal Hotel which was cheap but not so royal! Beer with local who is working on Wind Turbines
23rd April – 47 miles to Pt Augusta. Set off early – stiff head wind – 1st stop at Nutbush Retreat – a sheep station – saw some shearing and had coffee. Pushed on into a strong wind blowing up dust – cars had headlights on and shortly the rain came – a real mix! Crawled into Pt A. Wet and dirty – washed face a McDonalds cloakroom. Back in to rain and found Motel on Adelaide side of the town and stayed put!
22nd April – 56 miles. to Iron Knob. Roadhouse breakfast. Clear skies but soon got warmed up as turned out to be hot day. Head wind came up crawled into the town and found the “closed” Motel would be cleaned up and opened for me. Went up to the only Pub for a beer. Quite a night – cold shower, domestic arguments outside my door, loud music etc.
21st April – 63 miles to Kimba. Left early to Roadhouse for breakfast then got bike and set off – 13 ks to Kyancutta (only town for day) had coffee and onwards – flies painful today – they want to get in your mouth! – also have sandflies – real biters! Hilly ride most of the day but little wind. Got a Motel – good facilities and Jenny rang re. next day and Iron Knob – may mean a long ride as ? Motel closed
20th April – 37 miles to Wudinna. Left after a hearty breakfast. Said goodbye to Jenny and Pax and said I would see them in a week in Adelaide. Easy ride and relaxing afternoon
19th April – 49 miles to bush camp past Poochera – the last day with Jenny.B4 leaving Streaky bay we went to a Fisheman/Farmer market where I tasted my 1st Australian Oysters and sampled other fish meats wines cheeses etc. Left 12.30 on a quiet back road to head back to the main Eyre Highway at Poochera. Good conditions so went a further 15 ks. to a bush camp.
18th April 58 miles to Streaky Bay. Early start – 30 ks hard but glad of lunch stop overlooking a bay and with our destination in sight – pasta and rest. Found Jenny in Caravan park which looks over a beautiful bay + gum trees but concerned about noise from bottom bracket – cleaned bearing greased and reassembled. Walked to town via beach where we saw many families cleaning fish surrounded by seagulls and pelicans – lovely place for families. Saw 2 brides near the town jetty – having sunset pictures taken. Ate a a very good Pub
17th April – 59 miles to bush camp 20 ks past Ceduna. Sl. head wind from the Gulf – ok then last 20ks really hard and developed a bit of groin strain so eased up. Ceduna on a bay where we had fish and chips went to Post Office and got a flag for my cycle and also got my 1st mobile phone signal since Norseman (11 days ago). Out of town 20 ks. to bush camp.
16th April – 77 miles to Penong – met Bob a 62 yr old cyclist going west and then met a guy who had been in cycle tour (2800 cyclists) from Perth and was heading home by car. Later met 3 cyclists 2 young guys and a girl – all from nr. Sydney – the guys going around the top of Australia and the girl as far as Perth –they camp out thus had trailers behind their mountain bikes. Camp in old Playground of Penong – short walk to the Pub where I met a few locals. Dinner at van.
15th April- 67 miles to bush camp – 15 ks past Yalata an area owned by Aboriginals but currently closed. Late start – 9.00 – lunch stop was pasta at the van and a siesta then onwards and to night camp.
14th April 58 miles to Nullarbor Roadhouse. After yesterday’s wind thought an early start judicious. Windy am but later decreased. Had lunch on cliff tops b4 heading into N. Place has 5 resident dingoes who came in from the wild and due to being fed have stayed around. Ate in Roadhouse and chatted to 2 couples over dinner and another chap at the Bar – finding prices dear as so far from everywhere
13th April - 62 miles to a bush camp – just 14 ks. to Border Village – I am now in South Australia – met a guy going West on an recombinant cycle. I was jealous of his tail-wind! Had a short sit on his cycle – he has a trailer for his gear. Photo of world mileages next to a giant kangaroo statue. Pushed on stopping to take pictures of the Bunda cliffs on the Australian Bight – Right whales come to calve below the cliffs from June – November and there is a viewing platform for visitors.
12TH April 76 miles to Eucla last town in Western Australia. Stopped at Mundrabilla b4 heading on – at base of hill b4 entering Eucla I finally saw some live Kangaroos and a few Emus. Powered site for Van and ate in restaurant – nice pink schnapper and coffee in van. Did a big wash of clothes and set up a line on trees next to the van. Site looks over distant beaches.
11th April - 57 miles to another bush camp. Cycled to next roadhouse at Madura for usual feed – had stopped just b4 town to visit a ridge top with a nice view of the surrounding countryside. Left into a headwind and J. went to search for campsite – good dinner incl. an Easter egg!
10th April – 80 miles to bush camp 30 ks. b4 Madura. Easy 65 k run to Cocklebiddy Roadhouse – coffee and peach pie and took photos in front of a notice board declaring the populations of - people 8 budgies 4 dog 1 and kangaroos 2,567,000 !! Homemade lemon cordial and onwards to where Jenny had found a camp – well off the road as trucks (Roadtrains) drive all night and are noisy. Another still moonlit night – mild temperatures.
9th April - 74 miles to Caiguna. Good run til 2 hr. break then later saw Eagles who feed off the kangaroo etc. roadkill – good photos after stealthful approach to their tree. J went ahead to check out Caiguna and returned with a much needed Coke and Icecream (70 k. Journey!) Ate in the Roadhouse
8th April – 71 miles to campsite. After 50 ks. got to Balladonia Roadhouse – steak sandwich and 2 coffees pressed on – got to Australia’s longest section of dead straight road – 90 miles! We had system where I left in the am while Jenny packed up the van then caught me up about every 2 hrs. when I sat on a camp stool and had snacks – this continued each day until she scouted ahead to find a campsite or Caravan Park. Camp that night was great spot and also a nearly full moon – ate outside + a bottle of red wine.
7th April – 89 miles to Newman Rocks campsite. 1st day of the Nullarbor some 2000 ks. to Adelaide. Strong headwinds and many hills – progress was painfully slow – campsite alone then joined by another Caravanner and a small bus on tour with backpackers who all slept in swags under the stars.
6th April – 62 miles to Norseman. North-east wind when I left – rolling hills – uneventful day of cycling but did see a train with 127 carriages –carrying iron ore . No food stops but 22 ks. out I was surprised to meet Jenny (and Pax – her poodle) – she had unhooked her Van at Norseman and come out to meet me. Cycled into town and the Caravan park – I was concerned about food supplies etc. for the Nullarbor but then when I saw her provisions I realized I had no reason for concern!
5th April – 66 miles to Salmon Gums – with Bike packed had breakfast in cafe and left town heading northwards – for a change the wind was with me and good progress on flattish terrain. Motel with a tavern and pizza night.
4th April – 53 miles to Esperance. Early start to try and beat the head winds - Beautiful view along the seafront as I rode in – stopped at a cafe who recommended a Motel next door so after a shower I walked around the town . Esperance has been voted as having Australia’s best beaches. Called Jenny to confirm her arrival in Norseman – both of us on schedule.
3rd April – 62 miles to a Layby! and a camp night as unable to reach any accommodation.
2nd April – 72 miles to Ravensthorpe. Woke feeling sore in the backside – had shower and an examination ! – felt a lump and began to worry about the future of my journey so decided to go on with speed to find a Doctor at Ravensthorpe. Had a good run in and saw a sign for a Hospital so after a shower and change at a Motel went there – the Nurse examined the concerned area and referred to me to the Dr. across the road who although was booked out kindly fitted me in. He diagnosed an external haemorrhoid and gave me prescription for a cream which I later got filled. The Dr. had been in the Airforce and told me of Pilots getting haemorrhoids from pulling Gs which he would burst/give them a cushion and send them back up! I was just relieved I could continue my journey.
1st April – 35 miles to Jerramungup. Short day due to pushing myself yesterday – got a Motel and relaxed
31st March – 77 miles to Boxwood. Went thru’ 10,000miles today! Left A. in the rain – donned all my waterproof gear. Stopped at a Roadhouse for coffee and met a couple with all their worldly possessions in their car – they were moving State in search of work. Rain eased and got to Boxwood as the rain started again – no accommodation but girl offered a Caravan out the back of Boxwood Roadhouse – dirty but better than camping as the rain continued throughout the night.
30th March – 35 miles to Albany. Just a short day but didn’t feel like it! Strong head winds and rain. Seemed so hard I started thinking there was something wrong with the bike but there wasn’t. Got to Albany and went into the tourist info. Asked a lady about the ride to the next town and what I would find on route for food and accommodation. She said she had never travelled that road! Can’t believe she worked in tourist info and had not been to next town but it was 500 km! Got a room at a YHA – youth hostel Australia. Albany had the last whaling centre in Australia – closed in 1978
29 March 46 miles to Denmark. Had a hilly ride up to the tree top walk in amongst the giant tingle trees. Spent a couple of hours amongst these giant trees. The tree top walk is metal walkway set up on columns high up in the trees with big spans between the columns. I then headed on to Denmark to find a motel next door to a pub which was great but unfortunately I arrived to late to watch the first F1 of the season from Melbourne.
28th March 58 miles to Walpole. Left the campsite early to disturb a whole load of kangaroos. Got 20 km before heavy rain came. Very rolling countryside so was mainly pedalling up hill in bottom gear. Saw 5 emus in the afternoon. Finally reached Walpole as it faired up. Got a motel and had a couple of beers before settling in. Had now reached the south coast so tomorrow I start heading east again. Had a call from Jenny Scott whom I had met with her daughter Bec when we got off the ferry in Greece at 3.30 am – she was offering to meet me in Norseman and assist with her caravan to cross the notorious Nullarbor plain.
27th March. 60 miles to Quinninup. Faced the hills that turned out to be bottom gear but relatively small in comparison to the Greek and Pyrenees mountains. Went through Bridgetown and at Manjimup wet in a tourist info to check on accommodation. Headed on to a campsite at quinninup which had some little chalets. Was two kangaroos on the campsite which were quite tame. Walked to the pub for tea to be told they had finished serving. After a couple of beers headed back but pitch dark and no torch. Thought I might be out all night! Got back eventually to some relief.
26th March - 45 Miles to Balingup. Terrain went from flat to being quite rolling during the course of the day. Was aiming to go further but stopped for a late lunch in Balingup and was told some very big hills to Bridgetown and that I should consider getting a lift or taking another route. Decided to face that tomorrow so found a BB to stay. Had a lovely evening with my hosts Helen and Dik. Helen made some fresh Anzac biscuits for me and gave me a few in the morning to take with me.
25th March - 65 miles to Bunbury. After feeling quite ill in the night I hoped the cycling would get every thing through my system although staying a day was tempting. Didnt feel like breakfast so got on the road. Found the going very tough. My legs were complaining as well as my stomach. Felt better by mid afternoon. Arrived at Bunbury at Luke and Melissa house. Melissa is Sues daughter and had kindly offered to put me up for the night. Had a nice evening with them so a big thanks to Sue, Jon, Luke and Melissa.
24th March.- 48 miles to Pinjarra. Said my good buys and was back on the road. Was heading for the south coast as every one had told me it was the most scenic route although it adds 500km on my journey. Saw a caution sign for Kangaroos and then 20 mins later saw my first Kangaroos. Went past a field full of Aberdeen Angus bulls – happy not to be in the field. Had an egg sandwich in a cafe for lunch. Got to a motel and went for a walk round town. Had to rush back for a toilet and went faint and dizzy. Think it was bad sandwich. Thought I was out of dodgy food areas!
23rd March - Day to myself as Sue and Jon were back at work. Walked to train station and went back to Fremantle. Met a lady touring cyclist on train and swapped stories over a coffee on sea front. Got a phone call to say my bike was ready so travelled back to bike shop and rode it back to Sue and Jons. Had a lovely roast dinner with Yorkshire puddings that sue had cooked specially for me – has been a long time since my last roast dinner.
22nd March Jon took me to Fremantle (the site of the America’s Cup when Aust. defeated America!) . Lots off people eating fish and chips out of paper.
21st March John collected me in his Ute and took me to his Bungalow in the Southern suburb of Channing – after sandwich we went to Kings Park which is on the edge of the city centre and the Swan River – the area contains mostly Australian Native plants and trees including a Boab tree which had been transported from the Kimberleys in the North of Australia - it good to be able to eat and drink without worry and to speak English!
20th March Arrived at Hotel 2 a.m. – got a few hrs. sleep before reassembling my cycle and rode it to a cycle shop for a major service and to check my gearbox “fault” – bits of shopping and relaxed at the Hotel.
19th March Taxi (oversize- people carrier?) to Airport with bike box – checked in the box – flight at 5 pm so loads of time to kill. Sat next to Sue and John (Perth) on the flight – they kindly offered me hospitality in their home which I did take up after my 2 days in my already booked Hotel. The end of my Asian leg and a new adventure on another Continent.
18th March Got on MRT (mass rapid transport) and went to the Harbour front and transferred to Mono-rail to Sentosa island to see Underwater World – tunnels one walks thru’ with fish etc. swimming overhead as I walked. Then took shuttle to Dolphin lagoon to see their show then took a walk to the southern most point of the Asian Continent – apparently Singapore is nearer to Perth than Sydney so I obviously have a bit of cycling to do in Australia!
17th March Went to the Zoo eventually after dismantling the bike whilst the rain cleared. – best Zoo I had ever been to I think.
16th March took bus to Airport and spent the day organising my flight and cycle for departure to Australia. Purchased a bike box from Qantas and flight will be with Jetstar.
15th March 54 miles to Singapore City – had worried most of ride in to whether the gear box would last. Road signs were confusing at times but eventually got the Bridge and Malaysian Customs. Was checked out of Malaysia – crossed bridge and to Singapore Customs where they said no cycles at this Entrance so aftyer some discussion and a phone call they allowed me to proceed and I cycled the Freeway! into the city . Have now completed 9600 miles
14th March 47 miles to Pontian – good breakfast – noted front tyre just beginning to show canvas! – later got flat and had to change whole tyre – whilst being eaten by mosquitoes! Gear box has a fault and began to slip gears – cause for some concern.
13th March 60 miles to Batu Pahat – Early breakfast sky looking grim – loaded up and by then thunderstorm and heavy rain – set off anyway! And got soaked by the rain and the excess from the lorries and cars travelling thru’ water – ended up on a road with no shops etc so pressed on – had done 60 ks. b4 my 1st break – rain had eased – supplies -yes you guessed an icecream and pushed on and found a 4* Hotel for 38 pounds
12th March – rest day in Malaka – town is listed as a World heritage site so glad I stayed to look around.
11th March 58 miles to Malaka – Started day without breakfast as wanted to leave early for a hilly day with lovely scenery incl. plantations. Met an American on a touring bike – he was going from Singapore to Hanoi – chat. He rests in heat of day and does approx. 80 ks. – some in the evening – I prefer to push on and finish day earlier.
10th March 67 miles to Port Dickson – followed coast road for 30 ks. then decided to be brave and attempt s short cut unsure how the navigation would go – the short cut took me past the Airport and Sapang F1 circuit – the last 40 ks. became very hilly – kept seeing a lorry delivering bottled gas. Climbed up a hill to find the gas bottle lorry pulled over and driver offered me a cold bottle of energy drink. Sun had got up high and noticed my shadow at midday was directly beneath me – now near the Equator! Got into Pt D. along the beach road and found a National Chain budget Hotel –
9th March 63 miles to Klang – Rain then eased for awhile then stopped again – warned of robberies so selected a better class of Hotel a km. out of the town escorted by a guy on a Moped- tired so ate in – quiet night
8th March - 67 miles to Sungai Besar. Found a beach resort. ok.
7th March - 63 miles to Lumut on the coast road. Was not allowed on express way. This is where ferries sail from to Pangkor island.
6th March - 58 miles to Taiping. Just got here and then a thunderstorm so stayed dry.
5th March - rest day. Went to internet cafe and museum. They wanted to kep me!!
4th March - Did 25 miles to Penang George town. Bottom bracket has gone again 3rd March - 64 miles to Sungai Petani. Went through 9,000 miles today!
2nd March - Reached Malaysia (total of 8,943 miles). 56 miles to Kanger. Had heavy thunderstorm in afternoon.
1st March - 62 miles to Hat Yai - big city. Got posh hotel for 600B. Got rained on! Went for pizza at Pizza Hut. Very tired and muscles ache. May need to lighten bike. Might chuck front wheel!
28th feb - 74 miles to Phatthalung. Was overcast most of the day. When sun is out bike frame is too hot to touch! Town not very exciting and struggled to get food. No breakfast at hotel so will be away first light.
27th Feb - 44 miles to Nakhon Si Thammarat. Got here lunchtime. Leg still complaining but taken nurofen. Got a good hotel in town for 445 bhats.
26th Feb - 42 miles to Sichon. Wind and hills. Left leg been complaining all day. In a beach resort - nice but dead. Unhappy at short distance. Tomorrow will be 40 miles - just couldn't manage 80 miles today.
16th - 25th Feb - holiday with Benita in Bangkok (3 days) and then Hua Hin.
14th - 15th Feb - rest days.
13th Feb - 57 miles to a resort on teh North coast ofd Koh Samui. Had breakfast and was away before 8 o'clock. Pressed on in the relative cool of the day. Had a couple of stops for cool drinks and ice cream. Was quite rolling for last 20km. Got to ferry terminal - they left hourly. Half an hour sailing and then a 15km cycle to the resort Bart had chosen. Nice choice but plenty of biting mosquitos! Flight booked for the morning of 16th back to Bangkok to meet Benita.
12th Feb - 89 miles to Savat Thains. Got up at 6.15 and got ready as quitely as possible so as not to wake Bart on his air matress. We had breakfast together then I left before him but he caught me up before I had gone 6km. He later rang to say he had left the remainder of the mangosteens at the 68 mile marker. I soon finished them off! That was a whole carrier bag between the two of us in less than a day!! I stayed on the main highway and went all teh way to the ferry terminal. Decided against teh night ferry which took 6 hours and took a hotel and will cycle to main ferry terminal the next day.
11th Feb - 66 miles to Pak Nan Lang Suan. The three of us met at 8am and had breakfast. Leo went to get teh ferry to the islands and Bart left to go to Koh Samui and so was suprised when me caught us back up later on. He had been looking at ferries but they do not sail to Koh Samui. I asked for directions for accommodation on the coast and was also given a bag of fruit - they showed me how to eat the delicious mangosteen. I introduced Bart to them at the hotel and he loved them too. We both went for a swim in the sea.
10th Feb - 61 miles to beach north of Chumphon. Left hotel early having had a lovely breakfast watching the sun rise. Stayed on smaller roads - scenery fab but very rolling so many climbs. Saw a monkey in the front basket of a motorbike bobbing up and down. Seemed happy. Probably off to work knocking down coconuts. Stopped later on for a pepsi at a family run store - they were just about to have lunch and I was invited to join them. They would only take money for the coca cola! On cycling into the beach resort - met another cyclist from Holland called Leo. He had stayed same place as me night before! Bart phoned and said he was pushing on to join us. So there was three of us for beers that night!
9th Feb - 61 miles to Bang Shapan. Had breakfast at 7 and on road before 8. Got onto highway - straightforward day. Got pictures of people harvesting sugar cane knocking coconuts off trees with big sticks. Stopped for cola and owner told me he supported Liverpool FC!! He took my e-mail details. Getting tired but have next five days planned out to get to an airport to fly back to meet Benita in Bangkok .
8th Feb - 61 miles to Prachup Khiri Khan - struggled to get up an on. Very tired and woudl have been happy to stay a day - it was a good town. Packed up and left around 8.30am. Already hot and regretted the late departure. After 10km got pulled over with the rest of the traffic to allow the King to pass through in a cavalcade of vehicles. I was not allowed to take pictures. Struggled with heat all day and had regular stops to try to keep my core temperature down. Arrived at Prachup Khiri Khan - sleepy little town but lovely views. Had good meal at hotel and got 1 hour massage for £8.
7th Feb - 78 miles to Hua Hin. Got off to early start after breakfast in room. First 24km seemed really hard than I turned South and had a back wind - seemed to loosen off my legs. Had couple of stops for ice cream and ice cold coke from 7/11 stores. Thailand seems so mpdern after India and feels a lot easier. Don't get the crowds - people leave you alone. Met Swedish couple who were backpacking for a month. Got reasonable hotel. Had steak dinner and went to bed bloated!
6th Feb - Got away at 7am. Headed into Bangkok . Traffic was amazingly civilised compared to India !! Roards seemed good and traffic courteous. I was approaching a bridge over a river but I was told to go straight on and to my surprise rrived at a ferry - cost 5 bahts. Eventually arrived at an ok hotel in town centre 350B (£7) with air con. No-one speaks English and I don't think tourists come here - but found a KFC! (Had done 65 miles to Samut Song Khram).
5th Feb - Got up at 7.30, had breakfast and the assembled bike. This took until 11.30am until I had tested it and adjusted things. Mudguard and brake tube got bent but otherwise all ok. Decided to stay another night and set off next day.
4th Feb - was up at 6.30 and settled hotel bill and discussed taxis. Got to the aiport 9.30. Ended up paying excess baggage charge for my panniers which I had taped together as one parcel. Got on plane and then was moved to first class as the seat must have been sold twice! Flight was good - soon in Bangkok . Got all bags and a map and currency. got room at nearby hotel which included free transfer and massage.
3rd Feb - Spent the whole day getting my bike packed up! After breakfast I moved to the hotel next door - cheaper and more atmospheric with friendly chatty people. Had a bit of a wild goose chase between the post office and the market as to who could pack up my bike for me. Eventually got it packed by about 5.30!
2nd Feb - Woke early and took breakfast at 7am. Went to bookshop and bought Lonely Planet guide for Thailand . Got ticket from travel agents for flight to Bangkok 11.45 Wednesday. Had then to sort out packing up my bike for the flight. Went to pictures to see Slumdog millionaire with girl and her friend in next hotel room.
1st Feb - Cycles 111 miles to Calcutta (have now completed total of 8,142 miles). Planned to stop in barddhaman but reached there at 11am and as it was early I pressed on. A guy on a motorbike stopped to chat and took my mobile number and offered for me to spend the night at his home. But Calcutta was 45km and although I was tired it was a nice day. Arrived at hotel right on dark. The first was full so went next door (but returned to first hotel later for a beer as had warm welcome). I had finished in India !!
31st Jan - 68 miles to Durgapur . Uneventful day. Found way out of town to main highway without problems. Rolling terrain so many short seet climbs. After several short stops I called at a roadside cafe and had some chippatis and a coke. A young lad and his two mates came to chat and then they gave me a special commemorative coin to wish me luck for my trip. I took their photos. Got to the hotel in Durgapur - R1300 - including breakfast. Town has new buildings and shopping arcade - definitely feel I am nearing Calcutta . Had a good meal in the hotel so should put some weight on!
30th Jan - Was on the road about 7am after crisps, chocolate and bananas for breakfast. The good thing was that I was now relaxed about accommodation to Catalla so can enjoy the days. Progress was good despite the rolling countryside - but it was scenic so enjoyed being amongst it. Had very few stops - only to re-load my pockets with biscuits to eat on the go mixed in with chocolate eclairs. Got to turning for Dhanabad and on stopping to check my hotel details, was approached and asked to speak to a doctor at a clinic. I had teh timeas I had only 7km to go. Turned out to be an STD clinic!. they do low cost checks for trevellers on teh highway - such as lorry drivers who are away from home a long time! I was given drinks and some food and asked to sign register. Got to Dhanbad (80 miles) - big city with heaps of hotels. Picked one with private parking for my bike! 1050 R so not bad price - includes breakfast but not till 8.30 so will probably go without!
29th Jan - Left the hotel early - had breakfast at 6.30 and on road an hour later. The 20km back to the highway seemed hard work - I think because the road surface was not flat - not up hill just uneven. Once I hit the KH2 I seemed to be going faster with less effort. The road soon started on a gradual climb which became steep at times but I was happy as the scenery changed to rolling hills and dense vegetation and trees. Came up to Barhi. Lad on a motorbike said there was a hotel - I was suprised to find it acceptable at 300R. No basin and squat toilet and bucket and jug for shower but room was clean and free of mosquitos. The alternative was to go 38km to Hazaribagh on a not so good road to a hotel which may not be any better. Met a guy who runs a college for orphaned children. I was asked to give them a talk about my trip. They all wanted my autograph!! Seemed strange for me to get the interest.
28th Jan - Rest day in Bodha Gaya - had a good breakfast and headed out at 9am to re-take pictures in better light. The buddha statue is huge but the main temple with the maroon clad worshippers is a real spectacle. I then had a honey pancake followed by a jam pancake before going to the internet room. Coz gave me a call and we chatted about how bad the economy was back in the UK . I then went and had lunch and met a nice couple. He was American - and she was French. Came back to hotel and checked bike over. had some tea and met retired English couple in restaurant and had long chat about their adventures. Worried about finding accommodation for tomorrow. People keep telling me this area is full of bandits.
27th Jan - woke up very early so planned my strategy of how to get up, pack and eat my crisps and biscuits without being eaten by mosquitos. Managed ok and was on the road by 7.30am. The hotel bill including evening meal was R48 ($1)!! It was thick fog. I was straight from the hotel onto the main highway and crossing India 's longest bridge. It went on for 2 miles but all I was able to see was the railing! A few miles later a petrol tanker came by slowly so i got behind him and drafted him until he pulled off. The fog lifted quite suddenly and I stopped for ice cream and to apply sun screen. Back en route I found a second lorry to draft. When it got to low wires the lads took long bamboo rod with T piece and lifted up the cables. This lorry took me to Bodha Gaya turn off. Was 20km off the highway to ride back to continue but plenty of hotels and historic sights. A lad on a motorbike rode with me the whole 20km right to the hotel. Had a rest before seeing sights.
26th Jan - Lost a bit of time getting out of Varanesi as teh hotel town map was not so good and people kept sending me in the opposite direction - so 10 minutes later I passed the hotel! Was getting fed up when a guy on a bike was kind enough to escort me to the grand trunk road. Eventually got out of town, fog cleared and day became very hot. Was a good boy and stopped to apply sun lotion. Hotel at Varanesi said there were hotels at Sasaram and Dehri. Did 89 miles to Dehri - got a hotel with squat toilet and mosquitos - not enough daylight to get to next town. I asked for TV and mosquito treatments which hotel obliged. I then set up the mosquito net over the bed. Had cold shower and change before applying deet. Went for a walk to get phone credit and snacks and water for next day. Time soon went!
25th Jan - Rest day in Varanesi but got a 5.30am wake up call for 6am trip on a boat on the Ganges . There were 5 of us - Lilly, plus another Swiss girl called Bernadette - plus two Americans from Los Angeles called Peter and Rodney. Had a good time in their company. Minibus took us to the Ganges where we boarded a rowing boat. Was foggy so not good for pics. Loads of boats out and bathers (Hindu ritual to bathe in the river - 60,000 bathe here daily!). We were then taken to two temples before returning to the hotel for breakfast. The others then went back to town but I stayed at the hotel and had a massage with a male masseur. Then got supplies for next day and relaxed.
24th Jan - Left Allahabad - crossed the river to see thousands of tents by the river bank - so took pics. Then got stopped by a nice guy who was very spiritual. He wanted my photo and my photo with him etc. Eventually got to ride on. After about 20km, a honda motorbike drew alongside me with a lady motorcyclist who spoke English. We agreed to stop for a drink. Her name was Lilly from Switzerland and she has been touring for two years (although she went home for Xmas). We were both heading for the same hotel in Varanesi. Got to edge of Varonesi and was directed on a short cut down busy little roads. Stopped to ask directions and guy on a bike offered to escort me! Passed pigs feeding and crossed railway lines - held up a train! Got to hotel - 83 miles.
23rd Jan - Rest day in Allahabad . I have tried to contact Bart but cannot send text of phone him for some reason. I am planning a day of doing nothing! Was happy to be out of the hustle and bustle. Had Dominos pizza which was great. Was not hungry at tea time even though I was trying to feed myself up as I have lost a lot of weight. i did go into a restaurant and have apple pie and ice cream which was fab. Other than that I stayed in my room and watched tv. Was content at that as I had very little energy.
22nd Jan - Had crisps, biscuits and banana for breakfast, packed up and left early. Uneventful day - scenery is flat and green - very rural part of India . the pollution (smog) has gone and the air is pleasant. Much less English is spoken here. I soon collect a crowd when i stop so I don't stop much. Don't feel very secure in these parts. Food and water issues are also a constant worry. Did 80 miles to Allahabad and got a good 3 star hotel for 2000R ($40) - so rest day tomorrow.
21st Jan - Struggled out of bed - I knew i would after two big cycling days. Had breakfast of scrambled eggs on toast, cereal, fruit juice, coffee, toast and jam. best breakfast in ages! Left the hotel around 9am. Knew it was an easy day (although legs didn't think so!). 2 lads on a motorbike were kind enough to lead the way to the MH2 and after exchanging details headed off en route. Did 52 miles to Fatehpur. After trying several hotels (either not good or full) I managed to check in at a guest house for $6 (300R) - no tv, cold shower, one small light and mosquitos! Would rather pay three times more for somewhere better but no choice. Think I am here alone!! Breakfast will not exist so can be on the road early.
20th Jan - Got good breakfast of omelette and then toast and jam before getting on the road. Straightforward day. Slight back wind - didn't rest much as knew long distance. Legs getting tired but no option. Was worried about feeling like I did in Iran after my first 100 miler! Did 99 miles to Kunpur - 15km out I stopped at a petrol station for a rest and was promptly surrounded! I asked and was told about a good hotel. Traffic was manic - got to hotel - was 5 star! $80 - but was tired so decided to spoil myself. Got a fab steak meal for $6 washed down with a kingfisher beer - which my stomach actually enjoyed! I have been without beer for so long I don't actually miss it any more. I hope I recover!!
19th Jan - Got out of Agra ok after toast and jam breakfast - on the road by 8.30. Traffic dropped off but highway was good. Pushed onto Etawah (79 miles) as this is a big city. Policeman gave me directions to good hotel - only 600R ($12). Got showered after a rest and then got credit on phone and found internet room. Came back and got egg fried rice and nan followed by butterscotch ice cream. Was good so asked for another - eaten ok today. Big day likely tomorrow - little choice!
18th Jan - Spent the day sight seeing - after 7 slices of toast and jam I took an auto rickshaw to the Taj Mahal - 50 rupees ($1). Got hassled all day by touts for guides, trinkets and rickshaw drivers. Charged 750R to see the Taj Mahal (locals pay a fraction of the price). The Taj Mahal is fantastic but unfortunately the pollution spolit the pictures. After Taj I went to the Agra Fort and them on for a McDonald's - auto rickshaw waited for me. I had an agreed price but he then tried to take me to the market where he would get commission. I knew this scam so I asked him to stop and paid him then took a different rickshaw. Went to Itmad - ud Daulla (baby Taj) before returning to hotel.
17th Jan - Very straightforward day to Agra - 70 miles. Came across a troop of monkeys in the trees lining the road - stopped and got pics. A car had stopped and bananas were being thrown to them. Found McDonald's and had meal. Got cheap room $20 - ok but noisy location.
16th Jan - intended to do 30km to Faridabad but ended up doing 60km to Hodal. Bart's girlfriend arrived and brought some new bike parts for me - which was a great help. I set about fixing my new bike parts before cycling off around lunchtime. Got out of Dehli with no problems. Got to faridabad without seeing any country. Was told of a good hotel but was full and then told there were good hotels 8km up the road. There were hotels but decided to press on to better ones 42km away. Got to Hodal just before dark. At the hotel a mouse tried to get under the door but I sent him back out again as he was not paying - but he had left a deposit on the bed from a previous visit!
15th Jan - Went with Bart to visit a 12th Century mineret. Took lots of photos. Went to a tomb area dn then to the Red Fort on my own. Came back on the metro stopping for a McDonald's on the way.
14th Jan - Another rest day in Dehli. Went on internet and then made enquiries about getting the bicycle from Calcutta to Bangkok . Apparently I must box it up. I then have a 20kilo luggage allowance and pay 284 rupee per kilo excess baggage. By 4pm I had done very little - had some bananas. Took subway into town to Wimpy for a burger.
13th Jan - rest day - stomach was poor but soldiered on. Went with Bart to the National Museum where they charged 10 rupees for Indian people to enter and 300 rupees for tourists. We made our complaints as we paid!! We then went to the Indian Gate - a war memorial which is similar in appearance to the Arc de Triomphe. We walked to Conualt Place (a giant roundabout) before visiting a Subway sandwich shop and an underground bazaar - more like a shopping mall. We then took metro back to hotel. I did not eat in the evening - still no appetite - but had biscuits later on.
12th Jan - Wasn't planning to make Dehli in one day as i thought it would be too much with traffic and finding a hotel. But as bart was going off before me he found the hotel and rang me with an address. Progress was good although I was just bashing along the hard shoulder of a major highway. Stopped at a filling station and got some English chocolate and an ice cream. When Bart rang me i had just 30km to go and planty of light so pushed on. Cam into Dehli along the river bank. The road curved onto a bridge which I avoided by riding my bike the wrong way down the highway!! I thought they all do it so I may as well join them!!! Got into busy district and had elbow hit by a rickshaw! 73 miles into Dehli.
11th Jan - Left hotel quite late (around 9am). Had a very straightforward run on the hard shoulder of a busy highway. Nothing to photograph all day! Bart had gone on ahead and found a hotel - he rang me with directions. Last 20k of the 77km journey to Karnal was hard work. Got to hotel (nice one) and after shower and rest had nice meal.
10th Jan - Woke up with diarrhoea so disgruntled. got ready to leave but then felt tired and dizzy so had a sit down. I pushed myself to cycle as i was meeting up with bart again. Did 63 miles to Chandigarth before Bart so waited for mim before sourcing a hotel together. Found nice one owned by famous cricket player - Kiev Kepler - or something like that! Lots of cricket pictures in hotel and rooms named after players. Got some medication (tinidazole) to treat Giardiasis (a parasite - common in travellers).
9th Jan - Set off cycling again and didn't feel too bad. Was flat going so progress ok. Traffic of cycles, bicycles and rickshaws! Stopped a couple of times for refreshment and then to photograph an elephant being walked along the hard shoulder - they had me walk between its legs! Cycled 83 miles to Ladhiana. Got to edge of town and took hotel on side of the highway. Had a lie down and got up 5 hours later to eat!!
8th Jan - Another recovery day - woke with stomach cramps and tired so turned off alarm and went back to sleep. Whe I did then get up i felt a lot better and was able to move around at a reasonable speed. Went with them to some gardens and then pizza before returning to hotel. Changed the oil in my gearbox and checked the bike over - bike mileage is 6880 miles.
7th Jan - Woke up feeling a bit better. Managed to keep bag of crisps inside me. Recovery day and in slow mode as still weak and dizzy.
6th Jan - Woke up ill with diarrhoea - no energy and bad stomach cramps. Started to question my enjoyment of the trip and calling it a day has crossed my mind - but cannot make such a big decision when i am not feeling well. I had ridden so hard and fast through Pakistan I am exhausted and have lost a lot of weight (would be good weight for London Marathon!). The constant physical effort and hassle finding hotels is very tiring. I have pulled back over 3 weeks of lost time from Istanbul and am now ahead of schedule.
5th Jan - Entered India - 34 miles to Armritsar. Had got up early but felt badly so after a little breakfast went back to bed. Woke an hour later and after reading papers decided it was time to leave Pakistan . crossed to India without much hassle. Searched out hotel recommended in guide book and after shower went to the Golden Temple - inside is a vast calm - stark contrast to the busy hustle and bustle of the streets.
4th Jan - Bart left for India . Rest day for me in Lahore . Got up late then checked bike over. Realised both front and back wheels are damaged. Did bike repairs - will need to get a service in Australia . treated like royalty at the hotel. Given coffee, spring rolls and a special dinner.
3rd Jan - Met up with Bart again. Sight seeing in Lahore - included museum, shopping complex, McDonald's and KFC! Bus journey was challenging - very full but then took a rickshaw to watch the daily border closing ceremony - lavish affair with soldiers in uniform and crowds chanting - lasted about 30 minutes.
2nd Jan - 111 miles to Lahore - in posh hotel. 2 days rest now. Met up with bart again.
1st Jan 2009! - 77 miles to Sahiwal. Got posh hotel so feels good. Have 100 miles to do tomorrow to Lahore.
31st Dec - 73 miles to Khanewal. In a hotel with no electricity out of town. With Bart again but no beer!
30th Dec - 129 miles to Bahawalpur. Been drafting slow overloaded lorries but problem was not seeing pot holes - one of which I hit and had a double blow out!! Had a crowd whilst I fixed it. Bike is suffering. Roads shake everything and dust everywhere.
29th Dec - 80 miles to Rahimyar Khan. Good hotel. Changed soem money. Banks been closed for four days.
28th Dec - 70 miles to Ghotki - hotel with English speaking manager. Police free at last. Had a great meal with hotel manager. Ate sugar straight from the cane.
27th Dec - in best hotel in Shikarpur - 54 miles. Bathroom has no sink and a bucket for a shower. Not having to navigate or find hotels - police do that!! Stopped to buy some food and was completely surrounded! Bart has come to same hotel so sharing a room again.
26th Dec - 78 miles to Temple Dera. Tried to make Jacobad but too far. City Chief of Police is looking after me but in a room with no hot water, mosquitos and armed policeman in next bed - eating my biscuits!! Can't wash clothes. Chief of Police came and taken to good accommodation and had a meal with him.
24th Dec - took bus to Quetto on the Afgan border. Tomorrow I start moving away from the border. The bus trip was 12 hours on a freezing cold bus on very rough roads so no sleep. Met a lad from Belguim (Bart) who is on a small motercycle. He has been going 2.5 months. He's going to India, Nepal, Thailand Malaysia and Australia.
23rd. Tried to cycle to the border 90km. Got to edge of town and was forced into a jeep. Was transfered from one check point to another. Long waits. Waved down cars and bike in the boot with weels hanging out. Always with police or commando with me! Took 4 hrs to cross the border. Getting late and no hotel in taftan and prospect of police forcing me here and there I allowed my self to be talked into taking the last bus to quetto. I didnt realise it would be 12hrs on rough roads in a drafty bus with no heating. I was in tee shirt and wind sheeter. Bags and bike were on roof of bus! A guy gave me a blanket that reduced my shivering.
Arrived in quetto at first light after no sleep. 22nd. Take the bus To Zahadan much to my dislike. But 300km with no towns or hotels in between. The police would not allow me to camp. I read a prevous riders blog and he cycled for the first day then the police put him in a jeep and ahad a cold bouncy ride to Zahaden. 21st Rest day in Bam. Went to see the Aga. So much damage. Pictures of before the earhquake showed its magnicience. Many people were working on its restoration but they say it may take 50 years. 20th 84 miles to Bam. Police escourt in parts. Got stoped by a car. An Iranian proffesor and a french man then insisted on giving me cups of tea. Pomigranites, apples and mixed nuts. Some we had then and the rest I took with me. 19th 48 miles Rayen. Police escourt. Did 19 km of my track to see the Rayen Aga. A mud and brick built fort. Still intact. The one at Bam is 4 times bigger but badly damaged by earthquake.
18th Dec - 34 miles to Mahan. Cycle and bags all dirty from snow muck. Had a police escort with blue lights!! Get same tomorrow.
17th Dec - rest day - enforced through snow!! Thick snow and ice on the road to Bam. National holiday.
16th Dec - 70 miles to Kerman - capital of the province. Nice hotel with English speaking manager. Like an oasis after the desert.
15th Dec - 88 miles into a head wind to Rafsanjan. Totally exhausted.
14th Dec - 74 miles and camped. Very cold.
13th Dec. Rest day in Yazd site seeing. Went to a sauna and steam romm with a Pakistan man from Hotel
12th Dec - done a double day - 111 miles to Yazd. A lorry stopped me today - gave me a cup of tea and 2 pomegranites. Saw a road caution sign for camels! Also saw a sign to a place spelt fakhr abad - wondered how it was pronounced!
9th - 11th Dec - left bike in Nain and got bus to Esfahan. Plan to stay 2 nights before returning to Nain to attempt the 169km ride to the next town! Planning to sightsee and get a visa extension.
8th Dec - After 4 hours of climbing going improved. Reached snow level. 59 miles to Nain. Got best hotel so far - more like an apartment. Squat toilet but very clean.
7th Dec - did 79 miles to Ardestan. Weather was good with no wind. Got frustrated at hotel and was 8.45 before I left but at breakfast met 4 women from Australia and New Zealand and had a good chat. Flat all but the last pull into town. Not a shop in between. Had a cup of tea in a lay by with a wagon driver.
Got a resonable hotel but in a small town.
6th Dec - rest day in Kashan. Hussan met me and gave me a guided tour of the town. Went to some old traditional houses that were owned by the wealthy and a beautiful bath house.
5th December - picked bike up from workshop. Did 69 miles to Kashan. Weather good but legs struggled last 35km. There was a gentle climb and fatigue from yesterday. Hotel ok but out of town.
4th December - in Qom . 113 miles!! very tired. Left bike in guy's workshop and got taxi to a hotel
3rd December - 68 miles to Karaj . Hotel not the best but throne toilet and hot shower.
2nd December - 25 miles to Gazvin. Good hotel.
1st December - 90 miles to Takestan. Strong back wind until last 15 miles and when I turned I had very strong cross wind. So strong could not ride at times. Wagon stopped and offered me a lift! Went through 5000 miles today!
30th November - could not get up this morning so having a recovery day! Was running on empty when got here yesterday.
29th November - 84 hard miles to Zanjan. Last 25km all up hill in showers.
28th November - 68 miles to Miyaneh. After initial climb there was a gentle descent down a river valley. Nice ride. Good weather although cold first thing with frost.
27th November - Did 40 miles to Bostanabad. grotty hilly run with grotty traffic and now in a grotty hotel with shared bathroom, squat toilets and no towels!
26th November - had rest day in Tabriz . As promised the two drama students collected me from the hotel and took me to their house for dinner. It was most unexpected and greatly appreciated. They filmed me for their drama course!
25th Nov - reached big city - Tabriz - 47 miles. Think I am out of the hills now. At one point today, guy pulled up in front, peeled an orange and shared it with me! Planning a rest day tomorrow. Two students (budding actors) have promised to show me round.
24th Nov - reached Marmand after a very exhausting and long day of 111 miles! Some young lad decided to tell me there was a good hotel at the next place and finding this not to be the case it was either camp rough or press on. Was so shattered that a guy offered to store my bike in his workshop overnight and he arranged for me to take a taxi to the hotel (and to bring me back to my bike the next day).
23rd Nov - Did 22 miles from Dogubayazit to the Iran border. Had two lads threatening to throw stones at me if I didnt stop and give them money. I didnt stop and they threw the stones and missed. Had 5 school kids stop me and chatted then asked for money. A lad threatened to hit me with a stick as i rode off. Then 4 shepherd lads came running off the fields and stood in middle of road waving me to stop. These were bigger lads so I just speeded up and went through them - didnt fancy stopping. All in the last 22 miles to the border. Had no grief in the rest of turkey. Only the odd kid asking for money in the last day or two. Border crossing was very straight forward. Didn't check any of my bags.
Asked where I was going and waved me through after checking my passport. Had 15 miles into Maku. Small town set in a deep gorge. Next town too far to cycle on.
Hotel is basic with a shared squat toilet cost of 10 dollars. Got an Iran sim and skype divert number amended.
22nd Nov - rest day in Dogubayazit. Preparing myself to cross the border tomorrow into Iran.
21st Nov - In Dogubayazit. Got parcel Benita sent me with maps, bike part,
headphones, book etc. Hotel good. Big room with view of Ararat (except for rain and cloud). 3 degrees max forecast. Feels like minus 3.
20th Nov - made it to Agri - 65 miles. very cold wet and hard. Pouring with
rain, Hotel good.
19th Nov - done 54 miles to Horasan in 3 hours 40 mins. Going on was not
viable. Stayed dry though showers all around. Got hotel with shared squat toilet. First time for everything!
18th Nov - staying a day in Erzurum. It is a ski resort and snow due any time
now. Forecast is snow or freezing rain for next 10 days with just one nice day.
17th Nov - made it to Erzurum - 58 miles. Took 3 hours to do first 18 mjiles.
Was on road at 7am.
16th Nov - 62 miles to Tercan. Grotty hotel in grotty town. No tv. Going to
be long evening.
15th Nov - At Erzincan - 45 miles. 3 hours of climbing and 1 hour to do last
40km.
14th Nov - at Refahiye - 45 miles. Next town another 50. Nice hotel. Part
of motorway services set up. Only buffet food or crisps!
13th Nov - struggling today. Strong head wind and hilly. 2 hours to do 15
miles! Reached Susehri. Hard hard day. Very tired and grotty hotel. Did 51 miles. Seen first snow on mountains.
12th Nov - got knocked off my bike by a van - but ok. Worried about bike but
ok -think it was saved by panniers. Got stopped by the police - for no reason - they just wanted a chat! In hotel in Resadiye - est 52 miles by km on map.
Trip was off after the accident so didn't rrealise straight away.
11th Nov - At Erbaa - 48 miles. Was too far to go to next town. Brand new
hotel. Nice room. Getting much colder. Need to wrap up in morning. Knee seems to like a 10 minute rest each hour.
10th Nov - did too much. 70 miles (25 uphill) 25 into strong head wind and 25
easy! -mmm that doesn't add up! At Amasya. Nice town. Got bad left knee.
9th Nov - Back on the bike! Had easy run to Osmancik. 50 miles. Stomach ok
but taking no chances. Grotty hotel but been in worse. Missing hot food already
8th Nov - had breakfast then back to bed. Thought to cycle after 36 hours of
not eating was fool hardy. Hoping food digests.
7th Nov - still bad. Dr Taylor rang me - need to starve for a day
6th Nov - staying another day - 60 miles to next town and big climb.
5th November - Have diarrhoea. Starvation is only option.
4th Nov - 53 miles to Tosya.3966 miles in total. Steady day in nice weather but stomach started to cramp. Had a big climb into town set on a hill side and got to the hotel feeling pretty awful. Going to be dead careful with food
now!
3 Nov - 65 miles to Kersunla. Had a big climb first thing to Gerede where met young man who showed me a coffee shop for breakfast and I encouraged him to join me. He then went and paid when I was at the toilet and would not let me pay!
2 Nov - good weather 58 miles to Gerede. After 10 km had a big hard climb to Bolu. People told me to take the motorway which goes through a tunnel and so climbs less than the old road. Was assured it was ok on motorway and it was a sunday. So I ignored the 'no cyclist' sign and the toll booth and headed up the motorway. Never ending climb. Road workers directed me onto the closed off lane but said no more. In the tunnel a hazards light starting showing over the slow lane once I entered it. Could see cameras on the wall. Was expecting a reception at other end of the 3 half km tunnel but was none. Came off motorway. At exit to toll both got asked to pull over. Police were there and they asked for toll ticket. I said I didn't have one so was instructed not to run over the road sensors. Then after a chat they said carry on. Police said nothing. Got to Yenicaga and a grotty hotel.
1st Nov - 48 miles to Duzce. Reasonably easy. Arrived at 1 oclock. Next town has big climb and 30 miles so had to stop at Duzce.
31st October - back on the road very early to tackle the very busy Istanbul
roads. 92 miles to Adapazari good weather wind on my back and about 23 deg. Good day. On way out of Istanbul had to cross the Bosphorous by vehicle bridge. Police flagged me down and said 'problem'. He them flagged down a coach and tried to get my bike on board. Failing to get it on, he let the bus go and flagged down an estate car. The driver stopped (he looked like he was a florist with flowers in the back of his car) and was ordered by the police man to put my bike in teh back. We put it in - I was careful not to squash his flowers too much! teh guy drove me across the bridge and let me out the other side! Don't think his flowers were too damaged!
20th October - 30th Oct awaited passport and bike bits (after having Benita
bring out bike parts with her - new chain etc - found when she had gone back to England that I needed a new bottom bracket! Benita posted out what I had at home but it didn't fit! Had to wait for another! All adding time although still awaited visa. Getting anxious about not having visa or bike part. 3 weeks in Istanbul and winter coming! Eventually got both (success with Pakistan and Indian visas - thanks to Chris at Visaworld) and after doing bike repairs was back on the road. My enforced stay awaiting visas and bike parts was made so much better by the brilliant facilities and hospitality of Charlie Denwood and everyone in Istanbul - many many thanks guys. Particular thanks to Owen Jones who was good to spend time with me on an evening and weekend (and warn me of local customs and the shoe shine scam!) Thanks.
13th to 20th October - Benita visited me in Istanbul. Both stayed in
Charlie's apartment for which we were very grateful. Cooked a few meals, saw the sites, relaxed, waited for my visas and passport to be returned.
10th - 13th October - hung around Istanbul apartment resting up,
watching Turkish tv, trying to learn basic Turkish phrases and reading about next legs of my journey.
9th October - reached Istanbul. Here for over a week while Visa applications awaited. Staying at Charlie Denwood's apartment. Fantastic hospitality greatly appreciated.
8th October - 67 miles to Sutankoy. Just 50 miles left to Istanbul.
7th October - Hot day - near 30 degrees. Reached Malkara - so in Turkey! It seems so different to Greece and this was apparent as soon as I crossed the border.
6th October - rest day before crossing into Turkey and progressing my Visa applications for Pakistan and India. Happy Birthday Benita!
5th Oct - Rain early but then stopped but windy. Hilly and chased by dogs twice. Ended up a hard day with road turning into a dirt track for 2 km.
4th Oct - 63 miles to Komotini. Was an easy ride and light traffic but generally dull! Sent Benita flowers and chocolates for her birthday (on 6th).
3rd Oct - day off in Kavala to recharge batteries and to find an internet cafe to do some preparation for my Pakistani visa application.
2nd Oct - 60 miles to Kavala - a bigger town - but too tired to explore!
1st Oct - Had terrible start with big hills, ring roads and bad signage. Made Stavros back by the sea - a little fishing resort - 53 miles. Very much out of season - lovely and quiet.
30th Sept - Sun shining - through the mountains now and should make the coast today. Had my first puncture - a thorn at 3,211 miles!! Cycled through Alexandria. After 56 miles settled in a hotel in Thessaloniki
29th Sept - Did 71 miles to Veria. Involved a huge climb with an 18km descent!
28th Sept - Had planned to get back on the road despite the rain but it cam on heavy with thunderstorms predicted. So, enforced rest day! Can be dangerous in hills with roads like rivers. Not much to do - found refuge in a bar!
27th Sept - 40 miles today. Finished early in Grevena as big thunder storms brewing. And they arrived! Big hail stones and heavy rain with lightening so I got it right today!
26th Sept - Weather better - big climb out of the town. Only planned on doing 35 miles today (rather than the alternative of 70). Fantastic scenery but some punishing climbs. Made detination of Metsovo - a ski resort!- in Greece?!. Told bad weather for next few days. The owners of the hotel were at university in London.
25th Sept - Rest day. very tired. Found internet cafe and sent a few e-mails. Heavy rain. Big mountains out if here in all directions.
24th Sept - Set off when light from ferry terminal. Did huge climb up into the mountains - great views but some rain. Did 60 very hard and wet miles to Loannina on the banks of a big lake. Might have rest day tomorrow as little sleep on ferry and very hilly ride today.
23rd Sept - Reached Brindisi early afternoon and got my ticket to sail at 7pm to arrive in Greece - Igoumenitsa at 3.30 in the morning. Total of 2,973 miles done!
22nd Sept - Easy 58 miles on the flat with a back wind. At monopoli. Will easily make Brindisi tomorrow.
21st Sept - Did 65 miles to a town called Trani on the Adriatic . Flat easy day and weather getting better. Had a walk around the lovely town. Hotel near railway line - mistake!
20th Sept - Shorter day - 40 miles - a day of hills but got over them and it is getting flatter towards the coast and my destination - Brindisi . Been cold and had 3 layers on. Strong head wind that went through me. Pleased to be out of the hills but in the middle of no-where. Hotel fortunately has a restaurant as its 20 miles to the nearest town!
19th Sept - Did 72 miles! In Benivento. Turned to heavy cold rain in the afternoon and added to that I struggled to get into the town from the motorway. Met 3 survivors of jewish concnetration camps in the hotel!
18th Sept - set off on bike again. Got a hotel just on dark after 88 miles. Shattered. At town called Cassino with a monastery on the top of the hill called Monte Cassino. Stopped at pizza snack bar for a slice and a coke. Got asked questions about how far I had come etc. Owner told all his staff. I ordered a second slice and the owner said it was on him!!
17th Sept - got Visa for Iran!!!!
16th Sept - Went to Iranian embassy. Took passport and money and told me to come back on 27th!!! After making a fuss I was told to come back tomorrow!
15th Sept - Made some enquiries about Pakistani visa in Rome. After much travelling around - told not possible!!
14th Sept - watched telly!
13th Sept - more sights on open-topped bus.
12th Sept - Dave arrived. Got to Iranian embassy 20 minutes after it closed. Only open tuesdays to Fridays!! Saw some sights.
11th Sept - Steve arrived in Rome. Saw most of sights while he was funding his way through by bicycle! Booked into hotel - here for a week to get Iranian visa.
Tuesday 9th September - Reached Bolsena on the banks of Lake Bolsena - a great looking spot. 72 miles
Monday 8th September - Back on my journey again after a very pleasant break. Short day cycling to reach Siena - 20 miles (Paul's favourite place - so went sight seeing in the afternoon). Town is built on 7 hills so plenty of ups and downs!
Sunday 7th September - Vico d elsa with the very hospitable Stanifords - Paul, Jill, Rich, James and Alice. Went to a fab walled town called San Gimignano in the afternoon. Played pool in the evening. Back on the road tomorrow.
Saturday 6th September - cycled 28 hilly miles in 32 degree heat! Met up with Paul Staniford. Getting my washing done and relaxing for a few days at lovely villa with pool. Thanks Paul and family.
Friday 5th September - stayed in Florence. Did a bit of the tourist thing and did Cathedral and art gallery and saw 'David'.
Thursday 4th Sept - Reached Pisa around lunchtime - took a photo of the leaning tower (as everyone does) but didn't manage to lean my bike up against it in the shot. Was expecting is would be bigger! Rode onto Florence and arrived late. Thinking about having Friday off to look around. No air-con and mosquitos! Had good and cheap chinese meal - 85 miles
Wednesday 3rd Sept - First 12 miles uphill - biggest climb since pyrenees. Made Massa - 60 miles
Tuesday 2nd September - Did a very hilly 41 miles and decided to have a short day as the next place with hotels was around 30 miles further. Visited Portofino en route to Sestri Levante.
Monday 1st September - had longer day than anticipated. Started off with a steep climb to then discover that there was a cycle route in the valley! Did 78 miles to Genoa . Arrived late so not a lot of time to see the town properly.
Sunday 31st August - hit Monaco around lunchtime and cycled around the Grand Prix circuit. Surprised at how small Monaco is. Monaco came and went so quickly - I then pressed on into Italy - my Italian phrasebook at the ready - just when I had become very comfortable with the French language. Stopped for the night in Sun Imperia - 55 miles
Saturday 30th August - Cycled on along the Coast and stopped for lunch in Cannes. Met up with a lady cyclist who had been exploring Europe for several months. Nice to have a good conversation in English (and I think she felt the same). Cycled 50 miles to Nice - where I had the first parting from my bike - I turned up a shallow curb and the wheel slid along - the curb had been polished up by the traffic. I am ok - bit of blood on the shin. The old town of Nice is great with little streets and restaurants. Looking forward to hitting Monaco tomorrow and Italy!!
Friday 29th August - Continued cycling after my day of rest. Went to St Tropez and chatted to a crew man washing a boat worth $35m (can charter it for $230k a week!). Arrived at St Raphael - 64 miles. Watched Man U get beaten in a bar!!
Thursday 28th August - Decided to stay in Hyeres today to get some rest. Managed to catch up with e-mails on the internet - thanks everyone - please keep them coming! Sitting on the harbour wall I suddenly thought how amazing it was that I had cycled to here!
Wednesday 27th August - Hilly hard day! It was very hot from the off. Arrived at Hyeres on the coast late and very tired. Bike is showing 1,904 miles in total - 59 miles today. Sore bum.
Tuesday 26th August - Reached Marseilles. Mixed day - thoughts of Peter's funeral. Large place - lots to do and very hilly in the town. Watched a great magician on the harbour side - 68 miles
Monday 25th August - Continued along to Arles on the banks of the Rhone. Easy day cyling - nice and flat. Arles is a nice historic town with plenty to look around - including an ampitheatre. 54 miles
Sunday 24th August - glad to leave the grotty hotel behind and felt much better when I picked up on lovely country lanes. The sun was shining and there was no wind. I made it into Montpelier after a few hills. Town very nice and would have stayed longer if I had not just had a longish break. Booked into a nice hotel in the centre - 60 miles.
Saturday 23rd August - set off from campsite where I had been staying with friends - Craig and his family - many thanks for your hospitality folks! That was 15 miles north of Perpignan. I set off into a head wind and made Narbonne that night - nice town but not so nice hotel and didn't sleep much unfortunately! - 54 miles.
Tuesday 12th to Friday 22nd August - mixture of rest, catching up with friends (including my good friend Peter Graham) and avoiding the risk of no accommodation on the French Riviera! Wrestled with a cold and fatigue from my pyrenees ride - so able to re-charge my batteries.
Monday 11th August - Cycled up the last Col - Col de Peche. But there was no sign saying you were there! It was only a snall climb from the plateau. The descent didn't start for a few miles but when it did - wow! - over 20 miles of downhill! Stopped at a small walled historic town - Villefranche de Conflent. It was busy so I got off the bike and walked through the town. Had lunch then pressed on all the way to the sea at St Cyprien. That was the Pyrenees done and I had cycled all the way! I then want to the Tourist information to be told that everywhere was full in the area - even the campsites! I was told that I had a bteete chance of accommodation in Perpignan. I had done 70 miles already and it was 7pm! So I cylcled up and took the first hotel I found - was tired and relieved and decided to take the following day as a rest day (the first one since Biarritz). I had just done the hardest cycling in my life (so far anyway!) - 83 miles.
Sunday 10th August - Left campsite at 9.30 and started straight into the climb. Arrived at the top of Col de Puymorens at 2pm after 23 miles and 4 hours in the saddle - altitude 1920m. Only 1 more big climb left! Dropped down off the Col into a high plateau - it looked so different. The hills looked more partched but the valley had green lush areas and corn fields which I had not seen many of. I picked a route towards the next Col and cylced into Llivia. I got a nice hotel for the night and checked my maps. I was unable to decide which country I was in!! There was a border all the way round but was encompassed by France. I was near Andorra - turns out I was in Spain - but whichever direction I left I would go back into France. They wanted my passport at the hotel!
Saturday 9th August - Long climb up Col de Port. Half way up I pulled into a layby for a breather and where a French couple chatted to me for a while and gave me water and offered food. I accepted the water - it was 29 degrees and I was getting low. They were very kind. Heading for the next Col I stopped at a campsite at luzenac. Very heavy traffic. Set up tent and walked into the village. No restaurant so ate back at campsite. Pizza for lunch and tea! Watched French league football - 42 miles.
Friday 8th August - Robin, Sue and their grandson waved me off in the morning. Cycled back up the hill 3.5 km to get back on track. I was feeling very tired and really desperate for a rest day. Headed up the climb to Col de Portet d'Aspet. Near to the top I was caught up by another cycling tourist (with less weight - bike weight that is!!). We stopped and chatted and went on our way. I lost sight of him only to meet up with him at the top of the hill along with a group of cyclists - who were doing the Pyrenees East to West. They cheered me on, took great interest in my bike and I asked for my autograph!! Lafforgne was doing the cycle West to East like me. We exchanged all details. I then dropped off the top and after lunch in the valley took a right to Col de la Core (1395 m) - this was not on my list to do but I decided to do it as I did not want to regret it later on!. Found a cheap hotel at Oust - 42 miles.
Thursday 7th August - Enjoyed the morning climbing up Col d'Peyresourde. Hard but views fantastic. Layer of cloud hung half way up the hills which, in the sunlight, was striking. Birds of prey were soaring and there were paragliders on a hill side across the valley. Began to climb Col Arres. Map showed small all small villages for 40km. I was tired and was told of camping at a village called Aspet and decided to make a 5km detour. Found chambre d'hote on my way into the village run by an English family from Windsor. Robin took me to a restaurant in the village and had a beer with me. - 48 miles.
Wednesday 6th August - Headed up the mountain from Bareges with 11km climb to the top of Tourmalet. Clear day but the cool of the morning made climbing a bit easier. Zig zagged the ascent (when no traffic) to ease the strain on the legs. The last bit was steep but I knew the top was coming. Met 3 dutch guys who had hired cycles just to do the climb. (Guys - I have e-mailed your photos). Then amazing descent! Climb then to Aspin was helped by being shaded by forest all the way up. The road was lined with people givibg me support - turned out there was a cycle race coming through with an international field. Clycled down to Arreau - couple staying at same hotel - serious cyclists from Northumberland - they had done 100k that day in several big climbs. Chatted to Paul Hayes in the bar - this was the first year in 30 years that he was notracing - 33 miles. |